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Flourocarbon Leaders
Posted: Mon Oct 30, 2006 11:10 am
by MuskyTom
I picked up some flourocarbon leaders from John Bette on Saturday that were the best I've seen. He calls them Stealth Leaders and can be ordered through Mike Hulbert's website.
http://www.mikehulbert.com/leaders.shtml
Tom
fluorocarbon
Posted: Mon Nov 06, 2006 10:35 am
by jasonvkop
you can make your own fluorocarbon leaders very easily and save a good amount of money. I make my own and tie them straight to the line with a double uni knot. You can buy the fluorocarbon in larger amounts to save money in the long run and by having it tied straight to the line you dont have to buy swivels or worry about them breaking.
Posted: Mon Nov 06, 2006 11:13 am
by Will Schultz
Just a word of caution to anyone thinking about tying directly to a leader of any kind. If the lure could possibly twist your line you MUST use a swivel. Many lures that you don't think would twist line actually do and therefore it makes sense to always use a swivel. Twisted superline is weak superline, it simply can't take the shock and will break.
Every year I hear about broken line stories. I don't feel bad that you lost a lure it was probably your fault for using line that is less than 80#, not checking for frayed line, etc. What bothers me? That fish with its mouth pinned shut that you just killed.
Take EVERY precaution you can to make sure you use tackle that can handle the lures and the fish. Don't use a flouro leader on a lure that fish commonly inhale.
Minimum 130# flouro for casting and 80# for trolling.
Posted: Mon Nov 06, 2006 2:39 pm
by John E. Sox
Another word of caution with fluorocarbon... if you use it for casting, be careful with your knots when tying directly to a superline. I had a Uni-to-Uni knot slip on me earlier this year. And, luckily, the fish threw the bait. I would recommend that you use fishing glue to improve your knot or to just use a good quality steel or titanium leader as I've gone back to. I really don't see any big benefit to using fluorocarbon for casting after giving it two years of testing.
Posted: Mon Nov 06, 2006 2:57 pm
by MuskyTom
I agree with Will on the 130 lb test for casting. I had a 32-incher almost get through a 80lb. test flouro leader. That is why I like the leaders I mentioned above, 130lb test, with a stay-loc snap and ball-bearing swivel, tied using a nail knot and also with a crimp and glue just for added strength. I wouldn't say it is more or less effective than steel, there is usually the perfect tool for each situation and flourocarbon has worked well for me. I would consider using steel in some situations using split rings instead of using snaps if I knew how to tie quality knots for steel leaders but I don't, so for now I use flourocarbon for all my leaders.
It would be nice to have some sort of workshop or something to demonstrate how to make both steel and flourocarbon leaders and what materials to use.
Posted: Mon Nov 06, 2006 3:04 pm
by Will Schultz
MuskyTom wrote:It would be nice to have some sort of workshop or something to demonstrate how to make both steel and flourocarbon leaders and what materials to use.
Another vote for MMA Muskie School.
We need to find a facility for this!
Posted: Wed Nov 08, 2006 8:44 am
by LeMay
OK Will when's class?
Posted: Wed Nov 08, 2006 9:41 am
by Will Schultz
Finding a school or hotel with a couple rooms and a POOL is going to be tough.
Anyone have connections with a mid-Michigan school?
Posted: Wed Nov 08, 2006 10:00 am
by LeMay
I'll see if St Johns school would let us do it their.
LeMay OUT
Kent city HS
Posted: Wed Nov 08, 2006 11:21 am
by Muskie Medic
I Could prob arrange for the use Of Kent city HS, there pool and auditorium. I would have to do some checking .
TF
Posted: Fri Mar 28, 2008 9:10 pm
by hemichemi
Stoopid N00b has been busy...

Posted: Sat Mar 29, 2008 7:27 pm
by John E. Sox
I still favor steel leaders with split rings but you've got a good system there. I would upgrade the snaps to Stringease snaps. They are the really tough snaps.
Posted: Sat Mar 29, 2008 10:11 pm
by hemichemi
John E. Sox wrote:I still favor steel leaders with split rings but you've got a good system there. I would upgrade the snaps to Stringease snaps. They are the really tough snaps.
Thanks. The others I've made so far have had split rings on the snap end. That way I can easily change the snaps, or do without them completely.
Posted: Sun Mar 30, 2008 7:41 am
by Chasin50
Split rings will be trouble... You need welded rings. You can get them at Thorne Bros.
Here is an example of what I make:

Posted: Sun Mar 30, 2008 8:36 am
by hemichemi
Yeah, solid rings are on my vast list of things to get...
Those are some interesting crimp connectors on the mono leader. Can you tell us about them?